Who goes to Queenstown in the winter and doesn’t ski?
We did!
A few girlfriends and I escaped a cool but sunny Sydney for a four-day long weekend to visit a friend in Queenstown’s uber cute neighbour, Arrowtown.
Just 20 kilometres from Queenstown, the self-proclaimed adventure capital of the world, Arrowtown is a former gold-mining town surrounded by outdoor activities and an ideal location for a short break.
After landing on a rather grim wet and windy Friday, the weather gods rewarded us with three days of beautiful blue skies and sunshine.
Don’t ski or snowboard? Try snowshoeing instead
The sunshine followed a major dump of more than 30 centimetres of snow on the Friday night, perfect timing for our snowshoeing adventure.
I’d tried snowshoeing once before, in the deep powder snow of Finnish Lapland, a stunning walk through a winter wonderland of tall, snow-laden trees.
At Snow Farm, New Zealand’s ‘home of cross country skiing’, about 45 kilometres from Arrowtown, the landscape couldn’t have been more different. Wide, well-groomed trails that weave through the mountains, are shared with classic cross country skiers, skate skiers and snowshoers. No forest, just white, open spaces.
After picking up our rental snowshoes and poles, we headed out on the River Run, along the Roaring Meg River, keeping to the edge of the groomed trail and dipping occasionally into the off-piste area. Veer onto the central part of the trail and you’ll be quickly reminded by locals that snowshoers must stick to the outside edge. Know your place!
We fell into an easy rhythm as we chatted away and couldn’t believe our luck with the weather. The snow sparkled under the sunny blue skies, and we almost melted into the landscape, soaking up the calm, tranquil surroundings.
The Snow Farm has multiple huts offering overnight accommodation or a welcome place to stop for lunch. We walked to Meadow Hut then up the hill to the Musterers Hut where we had a short lunch break.
With the park closing at 4pm, we reluctantly retraced our steps along the icy, snow-covered river.
It was easy walking with some slight inclines and after hiking about nine kilometres, we felt totally revitalised. Nature is a brilliant distraction: it soothes your mind and restores your energy.
Our good humour was quickly broken when we discovered we had to put on snow chains to head back down the unpaved road from the Snow Farm. Five girls, no clue.
We tried a how-to YouTube video – how easy it looks when someone else does it! – and failed miserably. While we were fumbling about in the snow and dirt, a generous gentleman took pity on us and offered to help.
Forty minutes later, when the chains were finally on and fingers totally frozen, he no doubt regretted his generosity.
Hike the Lake Hayes Loop
With beautiful snow-capped mountains every which way you turn, we were constantly reminded just how naturally drop-dead gorgeous the Queenstown region is. I’d forgotten how close the mountains are, with multiple nearby ski resorts right on the doorstep.
On Day two, we headed to Lake Hayes for a morning walk along the trail that loops around the lake. Sure, it was chilly, but strolling in the morning sunshine with Hugo, our friend’s gorgeous sheepadoodle, was the perfect way to wake up.
Our walk took way longer than it should as we were literally stopped in our tracks by the views, snapping photos and soaking up the scenery. If you’re into architecture and design, there are also some impressive lakeside homes as you close the loop back towards the carpark.
The action didn’t stop there. Refreshed and hungry after the exercise, we headed to the Mount Difficulty winery in Bannockburn, in New Zealand’s famous Central Otago wine growing region.
Perched on a sun-drenched terrace with views across the Cromwell Basin and surrounding vineyards, we indulged in a tasting flight of five vineyard wines including the Roaring Meg Pinot Noir, Rose, Dry Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris. We might have had a bit of cheese too.
Next stop was the Kinross Cellar door, which offers tastings from five different boutique wineries in the Central Otago area. It’s got a great fun vibe, with a big open fire in a covered outdoor area, super friendly staff, nice wines and good food.
Golfing in Arrowtown
Our third day started with a brisk walk along the Arrow River, a coffee in town and a meander through the main street shops. All prep for our afternoon of golf at the very pretty Arrowtown golf course.
I don’t actually play golf so didn’t want to embarrass myself by pretending. While I had the occasional shot as we moved around the course (oh dear!) I was official photographer for the game, capturing each of the players in action – their tee off, swinging styles and putting expertise. It was the first time they’d seen their technique on video so a good feedback session too, and something to ponder over another drop of local wine.
It was a beautiful way to spend a mostly sunny afternoon on an uncrowded golf course, once again surrounded by stunning snow-capped mountains.
Fire and ice – taking the plunge in Lake Wakatipu
Our final morning before the afternoon flight back home was massively out of my comfort zone.
I’ve never been a fan of saunas, but this one is special. Floating on the shores of Lake Wakatipu, the Watershed saunas offer spectacular views of the lake and mountains, with a plunge pool that dips directly into the lake’s icy waters.
Inside the sauna it’s about 80 degrees Celsius, while the waters in the plunge pool are somewhere between five and eight degrees Celsius. Yep, that’s cold.
Sauna. Plunge. Repeat. It’s called Contrast therapy, designed to restore the mind and body, and one of the latest trends in the ever-growing world of wellness.
If you don’t feel like taking the full dramatic plunge, you can try the cold shower instead or dunk the bucket of icy lake water over your head. That’s what I did. And it was refreshing, and rejuvenating, and revitalising. Something I’d definitely repeat on my next Queenstown adventure.
I hadn’t been on a girls weekend away for ages. It was so much fun and importantly very nourishing for the soul. I tried new things, stepped outside my comfort zone and felt enriched from the experience.
Note to self – do it more often!
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